12 Days Road trip From Amalfi to Umbria
Our Italian Road Trip: From the Amalfi Coast to the Heart of Umbria
Amalfi
Gaeta
Villa Della Marmotta (Spoleto)
Montefalco
It was that time of year again — the end of September, when Italy begins to quiet down and the light turns golden. For twelve blissful days, we set off on a road trip that took us from the sun-soaked Amalfi Coast to the green heart of Umbria.
We flew into Rome, rented a car, and headed south toward Cetara (Casa Galano), our first stop. Cetara is a small fishing village that feels worlds away from the glitz of Positano or Amalfi. It’s a place where locals still gather by the harbor in the evenings, fishing boats bob gently on the water, and the scent of anchovies lingers in the sea air. We stayed three days, exploring nearby Minori, Maiori, and Vietri sul Mare — each with its own quiet charm. Cetara’s little beach was perfect: family-friendly, uncrowded, and warm enough for lingering swims at sunset. It felt intimate, authentic, and wonderfully relaxed — the kind of place that makes you slow down.
One of the best ways to experience the Amalfi Coast is by boat. Ferries connect the coastal towns directly from the harbors, making it so easy (and scenic!) to hop from one place to another without ever touching the car.
From there, we continued to Amalfi (La Casa del Duca) for two nights. We knew it would be busier, and it certainly was — but somehow, that didn’t bother us. The crowds are part of Amalfi’s pulse, its daily rhythm. By late afternoon, when the day-trippers start to drift away, the town softens. The piazzas glow under the evening lights, and the sea breeze carries the sound of clinking glasses and laughter from the waterfront cafés.
One of our favorite experiences there was a lemon tour at a family-run farm tucked into the hills above Amalfi. We wandered through terraced groves heavy with bright yellow lemons, learning about the history of these famous “sfusato” lemons, tasting everything lemony — from cakes to limoncello. It was simple but unforgettable. We also walked over to Atrani, Amalfi’s neighboring village — one of the smallest in Italy, but absolutely full of charm.
Leaving the coast behind, we headed north to Gaeta (stayed in: Caieta housing), a lesser-known seaside town that completely surprised us. It’s relaxed, with long sandy beaches, fantastic seafood, and a lovely, local vibe. We spent two easy days there, enjoying plates of red prawn tartare and spaghetti alle vongole by the water and visiting Sperlonga, a nearby gem of a town with narrow lanes and whitewashed houses that felt almost Puglian. Exploring a completely new part of Italy made the trip feel longer — like we’d managed to squeeze several vacations into one. Traveling with our three-year-old was smooth; he loved the change of scenery, every gelato stop, and every new piazza to run around in.
Our final stop was Umbria, one of our all-time favorite regions. The landscape shifted from coastal blues to soft, rolling greens — olive groves, vineyards, and hilltop towns bathed in afternoon light. We stayed at a 17th-century farmhouse hotel called Villa Della Marmotta, a beautifully restored estate surrounded by countryside. The rooms were elegant yet cozy, and the breakfasts — homemade cakes, local cheeses, and strong coffee — were worth waking up early for. The property also offers private houses for longer stays, perfect for anyone wanting a slower pace.
We spent our last days in Montefalco (stayed in: Palazzo Bontadosi Hotel & Spa), one of Umbria’s most delicious little towns, famous for its Sagrantino wine and slow, joyful meals. From there, we visited Spello and Assisi, soaking in the region’s quiet charm before driving back to Rome for our flight home.
As always, Italy didn’t disappoint — the warmth, the food, the sense of history woven into every view. But more than anything, it was the mix of discovery and familiarity — finding new places while revisiting old favorites — that made this trip feel truly special.
Read more about the beautiful small towns in Amalfi from here
