Seaside town Gaeta, & Sperlonga Italy
A Perfect Seaside
Tucked along Italy’s lesser-known stretch of coastline between Rome and Naples, Gaeta and Sperlonga are two seaside towns that capture the quiet beauty and authentic charm of the Mediterranean. We spent two nights in Gaeta and made a day trip to Sperlonga — just enough time to sink into the slow rhythm of coastal life, wander ancient streets, and savour some of the best seafood we’ve ever had. Though close in distance, the two towns offer distinct personalities: Gaeta, with its lively harbour, golden beaches, and deep culinary roots; and Sperlonga, a cliffside maze of whitewashed houses that feels more like a postcard from Apulia than Lazio. Together, they form a perfect pairing for a short escape — sun, sea, and simplicity wrapped in Italian style.
You can even make a 2 day trip from Rome if you want to add a beach holiday to your itinerary
Just a couple of hours south of Rome, Gaeta and Sperlonga make for the perfect seaside getaway when you’re craving a change of scenery. Easy to reach by train or car, these towns offer a refreshing contrast to the bustle of the capital — where days are spent swimming in clear blue water, exploring cobbled lanes, and lingering over long, seafood-filled dinners by the sea. Whether you visit for a weekend or linger a little longer, this stretch of coast is an idyllic escape that feels a world away from city life.
This beach was so beautiful with its white sand
The walk along the seafront promenade
Escape Two Days in Gaeta, Italy
Nestled halfway between Rome and Naples, Gaeta is a hidden gem on Italy’s Tyrrhenian coast — a small seaside town with big charm. Spending two nights here felt just right, offering enough time to explore its winding medieval streets, relax on the beach, and indulge in the town’s vibrant food culture.
Gaeta’s culinary scene is a delightful reflection of its seaside setting and southern Italian roots. Every meal feels touched by the sea — from the freshest catches of the day to delicate crudos and seafood pastas. The highlight of my stay was, without question, the red prawn tartare — the best I’ve ever tasted — sweet, silky, and impossibly fresh. Dining here is a slow, sensory experience: long lunches by the harbor, local wines flowing freely, and the unmistakable taste of the Mediterranean in every bite. We stayed in the old town (in an air b&b called Caieta Housing), right among the restaurants — a lively yet laid-back base that made evening strolls a joy. Some of my favourite restaurants included : Attimi Ristorante - where we had more prawn tartare, a twist on vitello tonnato and all kinds of delicious things. Also loved Antica Pizzeria Ciro (next to the navy base), dont let the front facade fool you, it opens up to the sea on the other side. Here we had the most delicious seafood pasta, prawn tartare and a better pizza than in Napoli itself. We also wanted to eat at restaurant A casa Mia, but it was fully booked the 2 days.
In autumn, Gaeta feels especially magical. The beaches are peaceful, the summer crowds gone, and the water still warm enough for a swim. The golden light of the season sets off the pastel facades and fishing boats perfectly, and an afternoon spent on Serapo Beach feels almost private.
Just a short drive away lies Sperlonga, another coastal beauty that looks like it was plucked straight from Apulia. Its whitewashed buildings spill down toward the sea, creating a maze of sun-drenched alleys and bougainvillea-covered balconies.
Between Gaeta’s unspoiled charm, incredible seafood, and easy proximity to Sperlonga, this stretch of coastline is the perfect destination for anyone seeking a quieter, authentic taste of Italy — where life still moves at the rhythm of the tides.
Things to See and Do in Gaeta
Though small in size, Gaeta offers a wonderful mix of history, sea views, and laid-back charm — perfect for a two-day visit.
1. Wander Gaeta Vecchia (the Old Town)
Lose yourself in the winding alleys of Gaeta Vecchia, the town’s historic quarter. Here, pastel-colored houses lean toward one another, and hidden courtyards open up to glimpses of the sea. Stop for a coffee in Piazza Caboto, where locals gather in the morning sun, or browse the little shops selling ceramics and olive products.
2. Visit the Cathedral of St. Erasmus
Gaeta’s Duomo di Sant’Erasmo is a beautiful reminder of the town’s long maritime past. Its Romanesque bell tower — built using ancient columns — and the glittering mosaics inside make it one of the most striking sights in town.
3. Explore the Aragonese-Angevine Castle
The castle dominates the skyline and offers spectacular views over the Gulf of Gaeta. It once served as a military fortress, and even from its outer walls, the panorama of sea and terracotta rooftops is worth the climb.
4. Swim and Sunbathe at Serapo Beach
Spiaggia di Serapo is Gaeta’s main beach — golden, soft, and backed by gentle green hills. In autumn, it’s peaceful and relaxed, the water still warm enough for swimming and the summer crowds long gone.
5. Hike Monte Orlando and Visit the Grotta del Turco
For a bit of nature and breathtaking views, hike up Monte Orlando, the headland that juts into the sea. Along the way, stop at the Sanctuary of Montagna Spaccata, a small chapel built between the cliffs, and peer down into the Grotta del Turco, a dramatic sea cave filled with turquoise water.
6. Eat Like a Local
Gaeta is known for its olives (olive di Gaeta) and tiella, a savory pie stuffed with seafood or vegetables. But above all, it’s the seafood that shines here — always simple, fresh, and unforgettable. The great thing about this little town, is that it is filled with restaurants, all the food was amazing, especially the raw prawns in tartare or carpaccio form.
Beach in Gaeta
A Day Trip to Sperlonga just 20 minutes away
Just a 20-minute drive north, Sperlonga makes for a perfect day trip from Gaeta — or even an afternoon escape. Perched on a rocky promontory, this whitewashed village feels more like a town in Apulia than Lazio, with narrow cobblestone streets winding between bright white buildings draped in bougainvillea.
We stayed in the old town, right among the restaurants and cafés, where the air smells of grilled fish and lemon. The town slopes down toward two long stretches of golden beach, and from the top, the views of the Tyrrhenian coast are stunning. Don’t miss wandering at sunset, when the walls turn golden and the sea glows below.
Sperlonga’s relaxed elegance pairs beautifully with Gaeta’s more lived-in, authentic charm — together, they capture the best of coastal Italy: great food, warm hospitality, and the endless allure of the Mediterranean.
View of the Sperlonga Beach from the old town
2 nights in Amalfi
A Citrus-Scented Dream on the Coast
After three tranquil nights in the sleepy fishing village of Cetara, just twenty minutes away, we were ready for a change of pace. Amalfi, one of the most iconic gems of the Amalfi Coast, greeted us with a flurry of energy — the chatter of travelers, the glint of sunlight on the sea, and the sweet scent of lemons drifting through the air. We knew it would be busy, but coming from Cetara’s quiet charm, we welcomed the liveliness. And as evening descended and the day-trippers melted away, the town revealed a more intimate side — lanterns twinkling, the sound of the waves softening the streets, and locals reclaiming their piazza.
View of Amalfi harbour on our walk to Atrani, the neighbouring town
Staying in the Heart of It All
Our stay at La Casa del Duca, a lovely Airbnb perched right above the family-run restaurant La Taverna del Duca, placed us at the very heart of Amalfi. From our balcony, we could watch the rhythm of the town unfold below — scooters whizzing past, the hum of conversation, and the golden light bouncing off the pastel façades. From here, it was also an easy and scenic 10-minute walk to the neighboring village of Atrani, which we did one afternoon — a charming stroll along the coast that offers quieter streets and stunning sea views.
Dining downstairs at La Taverna del Duca felt like joining a local secret. The food was exquisite — honest, deeply flavorful, and made with unmistakable pride. For anyone visiting Amalfi, this is a place that deserves a spot on your list.
Where the Sea Meets the Table
Another culinary highlight was Marina Grande, set right on the water. With the sea lapping just steps away, we indulged in a seafood feast that was nothing short of heavenly — creamy seafood risotto, sea urchin spaghetti layered over tuna tartare, and a perfectly balanced spaghetti alle vongole that delighted our three-year-old (and became his go-to dish for the rest of the trip).
The Soul of Amalfi
Amalfi’s beating heart is its central Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the stunning Cathedral of Saint Andrew (Duomo di Amalfi). Climbing the grand staircase to its doors feels like stepping into another era. Inside, the mosaic details, the bronze doors from Constantinople, and the peaceful cloister transport you to a time when Amalfi was a powerful maritime republic.
Between sightseeing and strolling, we couldn’t resist the famous lemon sorbets served in frozen lemon shells — refreshing, zesty, and perfectly balanced. We went back twice, and honestly, we could have gone a third time.
A Taste of Lemon Paradise
One of the most memorable experiences of our trip was a spontaneous lemon farm tour — a window into the soul of Amalfi’s heritage. The farm sits just above town, accessible by a steady uphill walk (note: bring comfortable shoes (I did not) and a bit of stamina — my husband ended up carrying our three-year-old part of the way!).
Led by a local family, the guided tour took us through terraced lemon groves perched dramatically on the cliffs. We learned how generations have tended to these precious Sfusato Amalfitano lemons, which thrive in this microclimate. A fun fact: mice are one of the farmers’ biggest threats, capable of wiping out entire crops.
The experience ended on a delicious note — fresh lemon juice, moist lemon cake, and a potent but smooth homemade limoncello. It was a sensory celebration of Amalfi’s essence. While tickets often sell out in advance, we were lucky to snag last-minute spots by walking up and inquiring directly.
Family Moments by the Sea
Traveling with a little one, we discovered a lovely playground tucked away from the bustle, conveniently connected to a quiet beach. It became a small oasis for families — a place where kids could run free while parents enjoyed a moment of calm against the sea backdrop.
For those seeking adventure, Amalfi offers private boat rentals that let you explore hidden coves and grottoes along the coast. Prices are generally reasonable, and the views of the cliffs from the water are unforgettable. Unfortunately, our plans were dashed by strong waves and an approaching storm that evening — but even watching the storm roll in from our balcony felt cinematic.
Taking Amalfi Home
Before leaving, we stopped by a local limoncello distillery right in the center of town, where the spirit is crafted on-site. We brought home a few bottles — not just as souvenirs, but as reminders of the sunshine, sweetness, and vibrancy that define Amalfi.
What Else to See and Do in Amalfi
While many visitors come for a day, staying overnight lets you experience the town’s quieter charm. In addition to the Duomo and lemon tours, you might also:
Visit the Museum of Paper (Museo della Carta) to learn about Amalfi’s ancient paper-making tradition.
Hike the Valle delle Ferriere, a lush nature reserve filled with waterfalls and rare plants.
Take a ferry to Positano or Capri or some smaller less known towns for easy day trips.
Wander through Piazza dei Dogi and the nearby alleys for boutique shopping and gelato.
Walk to Atrani, the neighbouring town in 10minutes. There is a cute lunch spot in between the towns on th edge of the cliff called Ristorantte Da Zaccaria.
Enjoy a negroni & antipasti overlooking the sea before dinner time
buy & taste limoncello at Antichi Sapori d ´Amalfi, a store and a place where they also make limoncello.
Amalfi is more than its postcard perfection — it’s a town of layers. Beneath the crowds and souvenir shops, you’ll find stories of families, centuries of craftsmanship, and the unshakable spirit of a coastal community that has thrived for generations. Whether you’re sipping limoncello, listening to church bells, or watching the sea change color at sunset, Amalfi reminds you to slow down and savor life’s sweetness — much like its famous lemons.
The fishing village, Cetara, Amalfi coast
Amalfi Coast’s Hidden Gem
When most travelers dream of the Amalfi Coast, names like Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello spring to mind—places dazzling with cliffside villas, bustling piazzas, and endless Instagrammable views. But if you’re craving a quieter, more authentic experience, let me introduce you to Cetera, a charming fishing village that feels like a secret tucked between the iconic coastal towns.
A Peaceful, Family-Friendly Base
Cetera offers the perfect balance of tranquility and accessibility. Unlike its more famous neighbors, this small town remains delightfully under the radar, making it an ideal base for a three-night family stay. The village is family-friendly, with a sweet playground right by the harbor—a spot we happily visited every evening before dinner. Parents can relax while kids run around safely, soaking in the views of the sparkling sea. The town had a cozy beach, not crowded and everything was very inviting.
One of Cetera’s most captivating features is its fishing harbor, which feels entirely authentic and lived-in. Early in the morning, as the sun rises slowly over the coast, the harbor comes alive with the hum of daily life. A radio blasts through speakers perched on lamp posts, playing tunes for fishermen as they clean the fresh catch of the day. You can watch them at work and witness the very seafood the town is known for, bringing a real sense of connection to the local culture and traditions.
Parking is worry-free, too: there’s a large paid parking area on top of the hill, where it was completely safe to leave the car while we explored on foot.
We stayed in a cosy Airbnb called Casa Galano, right on the main square. With a balcony overlooking the main road with all the restaurants and just a stone’s throw from the harbour, it was the perfect little home base to soak up the local atmosphere.
Exploring the Surroundings
From Cetera, you can easily explore the Amalfi Coast without the crowds. Here’s a suggested three-day itinerary:
Day 1: Slow Coastal Strolls
Wake up to the calm sound of the Mediterranean waves and enjoy a relaxed breakfast on your balcony. Spend your morning wandering Cetera’s streets, taking in the traditional architecture, and snapping photos of the quaint harbor. In the afternoon, a short drive or ferry ride brings you to Amalfi for a dose of history—don’t miss the striking Duomo di Amalfi and the quaint backstreets lined with artisan shops.
Day 2: Hidden Beaches and Scenic Views
One of Cetera’s perks is easy access to quieter beaches. Head to Fiordo di Furore, a hidden cove tucked between cliffs, perfect for swimming or simply soaking up the sun. Later, drive up to Ravello to stroll through lush gardens and enjoy panoramic views of the coastline that rival any postcard scene.
Day 3: Local Flavors and Day Trips
Dedicate your last day to exploring smaller villages and savouring local cuisine. Stop in Minori or Maiori for fresh seafood pasta, or visit Vietri sul Mare, famous for its colorful ceramics. Back in Cetera, enjoy a leisurely evening at a family-run trattoria, and then finish the day with a final visit to the harbor playground—the kids will thank you!
Why Cetera Stands Out
What makes Cetera truly special is its peaceful authenticity and family-friendly charm. You’re close enough to Amalfi’s glamour but far enough from the tourist throngs to enjoy real Italian life—friendly neighbors, local markets, and stunning, unspoiled scenery. Staying here feels like discovering a private corner of the Amalfi Coast that very few travelers get to see.
Tips for Staying in Cetera
Accommodation: Casa Galano is ideal due to location, but there are other small guesthouses and boutique B&Bs perched on the cliffs for panoramic views.
Transport: Renting a car is ideal to explore surrounding towns at your own pace. The hilltop paid parking is secure and convenient. Use the ferrys to visit nearby coastal towns. It leaves right from the harbour and the distances are short to other towns.
Family Fun: The harbor playground and the beach is a must for kids.
Timing: Sunrise or sunset in Cetera is magical; the village is bathed in soft golden light, perfect for photography or quiet reflection.
If the Amalfi Coast is a treasure chest, Cetera is the hidden jewel inside it. Three nights here will leave you with memories of calm mornings, stunning vistas, family fun, and a taste of authentic Italian coastal life.
Have a look at other beautiful towns we discovered on our Amalfi trip and discover our entire road trip route from here.
view from the boat that takes you to different towns. This is the view coming into Cetara.
Cetera is famously known for its anchovies, celebrated across Italy for their exceptional quality and rich flavor, still prepared today using traditional methods passed down through generations.
Beautiful Small towns on the Amalfi coast
Beyond the Postcards:
Discovering the Gentle Towns of the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast has long been a dream — a coastline of impossible beauty, where cliffs plunge into turquoise water and pastel towns cling to the rocks like blossoms in the sun. Yet behind the fame of Positano’s glamour and Ravello’s romance lies another coast entirely — one softer, slower, and infinitely more human.
It’s in the smaller towns, the ones often passed by on the way to somewhere else, that the true rhythm of Amalfi life still beats. These are places where fishermen still mend their nets by the harbor, where the scent of lemons mingles with espresso in the morning air, and where evenings end with locals gathering in the square as the sea glows gold beneath the fading sun.
From Cetara’s quiet authenticity to Minori’s sweetness and Maiori’s generous beachside charm; from the colorful ceramics of Vietri sul Mare to the secret calm of Atrani, just a short walk from bustling Amalfi — each of these towns tells a smaller, truer story of the coast. Together, they reveal the Amalfi as it once was, and still is, if you know where to look.
Here, the pace slows. Meals stretch into conversations. Beauty isn’t found in grand gestures but in the details — the glint of light on the water, the hum of a boat in the distance, the taste of lemons warmed by the afternoon sun.
This is the gentler Amalfi Coast — the one that invites you to linger, to listen, and to fall quietly in love with the places that don’t try to impress you at all.
Cetara: Amalfi’s Quiet Secret
Tucked between dramatic cliffs and the deep blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Cetara feels like a secret whispered along the Amalfi Coast. While the famous towns nearby — Positano, Amalfi, Ravello — dazzle with glamour and crowds, Cetara remains quietly itself: a working fishing village where life still moves to the rhythm of the sea.
In the early mornings, fishermen return to the harbor with their catch of anchovies — the village’s pride and culinary soul. The air carries the scent of salt and citrus, and you might hear the soft hum of boats being untied or nets being cleaned. Cetara’s name itself is said to come from cetaria, Latin for “tuna fishery,” and its traditions of anchovy fishing and salt-preserving date back centuries. Even today, its most famous export is colatura di alici, an amber-colored anchovy essence that adds depth and umami to a simple plate of pasta.
Strolling through Cetara feels like stepping into a more intimate side of the Amalfi Coast. The narrow lanes spill gently toward the small beach, lined with pastel houses and laundry fluttering in the breeze. Children play by the water; locals gather at seaside cafés for espresso or a glass of limoncello. There’s an authenticity here that’s hard to find elsewhere — a sense of community that hasn’t been polished away by tourism.
For travelers, Cetara offers the best of both worlds. It’s peaceful and unpretentious, yet close enough to explore the rest of the coast by ferry. From its harbor, boats depart regularly for Amalfi, Maiori, and Positano — but many visitors find themselves staying put, content to swim in its calm waters, savor its incredible seafood, and watch the sun melt behind the cliffs in the evening.
Cetara isn’t about grand sights or luxury hotels. It’s about slowing down, tasting the sea, and feeling — even for a few days — like you belong to a quieter rhythm of Italy.
Minori:
The Amalfi Coast’s Little Secret of Sweetness
Minori is the kind of town that doesn’t need to dazzle — it charms you quietly instead. Just a few minutes along the coast from Amalfi, this small seaside village has long been known as La Città del Gusto — the City of Taste — and for good reason. Life here seems to revolve around food, warmth, and that effortless Italian joy that finds its way into every moment.
The heart of Minori is its seafront promenade, lined with lemon trees and locals greeting one another as they stroll. The beach is small and inviting, perfect for an afternoon swim before slipping into one of the cafés nearby for an espresso or an Aperol spritz. But it’s Minori’s pastry heritage that truly makes it special. The legendary Sal De Riso Pasticceria, run by one of Italy’s most beloved pastry chefs, is a pilgrimage for anyone with a sweet tooth. His delizia al limone — a lemon-scented sponge filled with cream — tastes like pure sunshine, and it’s best enjoyed slowly on the terrace overlooking the sea.
Minori also has a quieter depth. Just behind the town lies the Villa Romana, a remarkably preserved Roman villa from the 1st century AD, with mosaics and frescoes that hint at a time when emperors and poets found refuge here. Unlike its glamorous neighbors, Minori feels local and unhurried — a place to taste, wander, and rest. It’s the Amalfi Coast in its most genuine form: simple, delicious, and deeply human.
Maiori: The Wide Embrace of the Coast
If Minori is the Amalfi Coast’s whisper, Maiori is its open-armed welcome. Just around the curve of the coast, this town stretches out along one of the longest beaches on the Amalfi, a golden sweep of sand framed by pastel houses and clear turquoise water. It’s a place that feels made for families, for leisurely swims, and for evenings spent dining under the stars.
Maiori has an easy rhythm — less crowded than Amalfi, yet lively enough to feel vibrant. You can spend hours wandering its promenade, stopping for gelato or a glass of crisp Falanghina wine as the sky blushes pink over the sea. For a taste of history, climb up to the San Nicola de Thoro-Plano, an 11th-century church nestled above the town, or follow the Sentiero dei Limoni — the Path of Lemons — a fragrant walking trail that winds from Maiori to Minori through terraced lemon groves overlooking the coast.
Food here is as generous as the town itself. Fresh seafood, homemade pasta, and local wines are found at every table, often in simple trattorias tucked into narrow lanes. Ristorante Pineta 1903 is a favorite — a family-run spot serving traditional dishes with a modern twist, all under a canopy of lemon trees.
Maiori invites you to slow down and stay awhile. It’s not about the rush of sightseeing or luxury; it’s about sunshine, laughter, and the joy of being near the sea. It’s a reminder that on the Amalfi Coast, beauty isn’t just in the views — it’s in the way of life.
Vietri sul Mare:
The Painted Gateway to the Amalfi Coast
At the very beginning of the Amalfi Coast, where the mountains rise from the sea and the road begins to twist and shimmer, sits Vietri sul Mare — a town that feels like it’s been brushed to life with color. Known as the gateway to the Amalfi Coast, Vietri is a celebration of craft, clay, and coastal charm. Its streets are a mosaic of ceramics, each wall and stairway telling a story in blues, yellows, and sea-green glazes that capture the light like fragments of the Mediterranean itself.
Vietri’s ceramic tradition dates back centuries. Wander through the old town and you’ll find workshops and boutiques where artisans still hand-paint each piece — plates, tiles, vases, all alive with lemon motifs, sunbursts, and swirls of cobalt blue. For a glimpse into this deep-rooted art, visit the Museo della Ceramica inside Villa Guariglia, perched on the hill above town. The view alone — the sea stretching endlessly below — is worth the climb.
The heart of Vietri beats around Piazza Amendola, where cafés spill into the square and locals gather over espresso or spritz. Down below, the Marina di Vietri offers a wide, sandy beach — perfect for a late afternoon swim or a quiet hour of sun before dinner. As the day fades, the tiles on the church of San Giovanni Battista, with its vibrant green-and-yellow dome, gleam in the sunset light like a beacon over the town.
Vietri sul Mare is both the beginning and the essence of the Amalfi Coast: lively but not hurried, traditional yet endlessly creative. It’s where the coast first reveals its rhythm — not in the rush of luxury, but in the simple joy of color, craft, and connection. For many travelers, it’s a place to pass through; for those who linger, it’s a place to fall quietly, deeply in love with.
Amalfi: The Beating Heart of the Coast
(though this is not a small unknown town, wanted to add it into the list)
To arrive in Amalfi is to step into the storybook image of the coast that bears its name — a town where sunlight spills over whitewashed houses, where lemon groves cling to cliffs, and where the sea sparkles like glass beneath the ancient watch of the Duomo. Amalfi is the pulse of the region, a place where centuries of history, faith, and salt air come together in a glorious, layered hum.
Once a powerful maritime republic, Amalfi’s spirit still feels larger than its size. The heart of town beats in Piazza del Duomo, where the striking Cathedral of Saint Andrew rises in stripes of black and white stone, its grand staircase filled with the quiet music of footsteps and laughter. Inside, the golden mosaics shimmer in the dim light, echoing a time when Amalfi ruled the waves.
But beyond its grandeur, Amalfi is a town of simple, sensual pleasures. In the mornings, the scent of espresso drifts through narrow lanes lined with paper shops, lemon stalls, and tiny boutiques. In the heat of the day, the harbor comes alive — boats swaying lazily, ferries departing for Positano or Salerno, and swimmers slipping into the clear blue water just steps from the promenade.
As evening falls, the town transforms. The crowds thin, the lights soften, and the air fills with the clinking of glasses and the scent of grilled seafood and lemon. Dine at Da Gemma or Taverna Buonvicino, tucked just off the main square, where the food celebrates the coast’s best ingredients — fresh fish, Amalfi lemons, and olive oil as golden as the sunsets.
Amalfi is more than a destination; it’s a feeling — that blend of beauty, chaos, and grace that defines the Italian south. It’s the sound of church bells mingling with waves, the taste of lemons warmed by the sun, the sight of stone houses stacked impossibly high above the sea.
And just when you think you’ve seen it all, you discover there’s a quiet path leading out of town — a short walk away — to tiny Atrani, where Amalfi’s heart beats slower, but never less bright.
Atrani: The Amalfi Coast’s Hidden Heart
Just a ten-minute walk from bustling Amalfi, tucked quietly behind a curve of cliff and sea, lies Atrani — a town so small and serene it feels almost secret. Many visitors pass right by it without ever realizing it’s there. Yet for those who wander over on foot — following the short, sunlit path that winds along the coast — Atrani reveals itself like a dream: a handful of pastel houses cascading toward a tiny beach, a single piazza where life unfolds at the slowest, most graceful pace.
With fewer than a thousand residents, Atrani is one of Italy’s smallest towns, but it holds the essence of the Amalfi Coast in miniature. The scent of lemons drifts through its narrow lanes, and the sound of footsteps echoes gently off ancient stone. Laundry hangs from balconies like ribbons in the breeze, and the sea sparkles just beyond the archways. Everything feels closer here — the cliffs, the water, the people.
At the heart of the town is Piazza Umberto I, a sun-dappled square framed by old façades and a handful of cafés. Sit down for a cappuccino or a glass of wine at Bar Birecto, and you’ll see why so many fall in love with this place. There’s no rush, no spectacle — just everyday beauty. A small path leads from the piazza down to Atrani’s beach, a little crescent of sand hugged by cliffs, perfect for a quiet swim away from the crowds of Amalfi.
Despite its closeness, Atrani feels like stepping back in time. The Church of San Salvatore de’ Birecto, with its Byzantine bronze doors, recalls centuries of history, while the whitewashed lanes that twist up toward the hills offer glimpses of sea and sky at every turn.
Atrani isn’t a place you visit to do or see much — it’s a place to be. To linger over coffee, to feel the calm rhythm of a coastal village still untouched by the rush of modern tourism. And perhaps that’s its magic: so near to Amalfi, yet so entirely its own world — a quiet echo of how the coast must have felt long ago.
12 Days Road trip From Amalfi to Umbria
Our Italian Road Trip: From the Amalfi Coast to the Heart of Umbria
Amalfi
Gaeta
Villa Della Marmotta (Spoleto)
Montefalco
It was that time of year again — the end of September, when Italy begins to quiet down and the light turns golden. For twelve blissful days, we set off on a road trip that took us from the sun-soaked Amalfi Coast to the green heart of Umbria.
We flew into Rome, rented a car, and headed south toward Cetara (Casa Galano), our first stop. Cetara is a small fishing village that feels worlds away from the glitz of Positano or Amalfi. It’s a place where locals still gather by the harbor in the evenings, fishing boats bob gently on the water, and the scent of anchovies lingers in the sea air. We stayed three days, exploring nearby Minori, Maiori, and Vietri sul Mare — each with its own quiet charm. Cetara’s little beach was perfect: family-friendly, uncrowded, and warm enough for lingering swims at sunset. It felt intimate, authentic, and wonderfully relaxed — the kind of place that makes you slow down.
One of the best ways to experience the Amalfi Coast is by boat. Ferries connect the coastal towns directly from the harbors, making it so easy (and scenic!) to hop from one place to another without ever touching the car.
From there, we continued to Amalfi (La Casa del Duca) for two nights. We knew it would be busier, and it certainly was — but somehow, that didn’t bother us. The crowds are part of Amalfi’s pulse, its daily rhythm. By late afternoon, when the day-trippers start to drift away, the town softens. The piazzas glow under the evening lights, and the sea breeze carries the sound of clinking glasses and laughter from the waterfront cafés.
One of our favorite experiences there was a lemon tour at a family-run farm tucked into the hills above Amalfi. We wandered through terraced groves heavy with bright yellow lemons, learning about the history of these famous “sfusato” lemons, tasting everything lemony — from cakes to limoncello. It was simple but unforgettable. We also walked over to Atrani, Amalfi’s neighboring village — one of the smallest in Italy, but absolutely full of charm.
Leaving the coast behind, we headed north to Gaeta (stayed in: Caieta housing), a lesser-known seaside town that completely surprised us. It’s relaxed, with long sandy beaches, fantastic seafood, and a lovely, local vibe. We spent two easy days there, enjoying plates of red prawn tartare and spaghetti alle vongole by the water and visiting Sperlonga, a nearby gem of a town with narrow lanes and whitewashed houses that felt almost Puglian. Exploring a completely new part of Italy made the trip feel longer — like we’d managed to squeeze several vacations into one. Traveling with our three-year-old was smooth; he loved the change of scenery, every gelato stop, and every new piazza to run around in.
Our final stop was Umbria, one of our all-time favorite regions. The landscape shifted from coastal blues to soft, rolling greens — olive groves, vineyards, and hilltop towns bathed in afternoon light. We stayed at a 17th-century farmhouse hotel called Villa Della Marmotta, a beautifully restored estate surrounded by countryside. The rooms were elegant yet cozy, and the breakfasts — homemade cakes, local cheeses, and strong coffee — were worth waking up early for. The property also offers private houses for longer stays, perfect for anyone wanting a slower pace.
We spent our last days in Montefalco (stayed in: Palazzo Bontadosi Hotel & Spa), one of Umbria’s most delicious little towns, famous for its Sagrantino wine and slow, joyful meals. From there, we visited Spello and Assisi, soaking in the region’s quiet charm before driving back to Rome for our flight home.
As always, Italy didn’t disappoint — the warmth, the food, the sense of history woven into every view. But more than anything, it was the mix of discovery and familiarity — finding new places while revisiting old favorites — that made this trip feel truly special.
Read more about the beautiful small towns in Amalfi from here
Little Venice- The less known Chioggia
Slow Travel Guide to Chioggia, Italy: Embrace the Tranquil Charm
Chioggia, often dubbed “Little Venice,” is a place where time seems to slow down, inviting you to savor its unique charm at a leisurely pace. Located on the southern tip of the Venetian Lagoon, this small fishing town offers an authentic slice of coastal life, away from the hustle and bustle of more popular tourist destinations. This guide will help you experience Chioggia in the most relaxed and immersive way, focusing on its beautiful old town, incredible seafood, serene beaches, and peaceful boat tours.
From our 10 day stay in Veneto, we stayed for 3 nights in Chioggia, in a charming air b&b that was located right in the heart of the old town. We ate amazing seafood throughout our stay, enjoyed the beach (20 min walk from the old town to the newer part of town), took a boat tour, visited the seafood market and enjoyed the old town. Chioggia is close to Venice (you can also take the fairy to Venice) which makes it a great place to explore other beautiful towns in Veneto.
Getting to Chioggia from Venice
To reach Chioggia from Venice, you have several options. Chioggia is located approximately 35 kilometers (about 22 miles) south of Venice, just under an hour by car. It is also convenient to take a boat from Venice's San Zaccaria vaporetto stop. Alternatively, you can opt for a bus ride or even a combination of bus and boat. The journey is relatively short and makes for an easy and rewarding day trip from Venice.
Immerse Yourself in the Old Town’s Charm
As you arrive in Chioggia, allow yourself to settle into the slow rhythm of the town. Choose a charming accommodation in the heart of the old town. This central location makes it easy to explore the town on foot and be in walking distance to the best restaurants. Have coffee with other locals in one of the little cafes overlooking the water. You will find a lot of fishermen in the morning, coming into the harbour with their daily catches.
Explore the Old Town Begin your slow exploration of Chioggia by wandering through its narrow streets and alleyways. The old town is a maze of colorful buildings, picturesque canals, and charming piazzas that are perfect for a leisurely stroll. Start on Corso del Popolo, the main street lined with cafes, shops, and local life. The slower you walk, the more you’ll notice the small details that make Chioggia special: the laundry fluttering from windows, the gentle hum of conversation, and the occasional fisherman mending his nets.
Visit the Fish Market Make your way to Mercato del Pesce, the town’s vibrant fish market. Chioggia’s seafood is renowned, and the market is the beating heart of the town’s daily life. Here, you’ll find an array of freshly caught fish, clams, mussels, and—most notably—moeche, the local soft-shell crabs that are a seasonal delicacy. Take your time to chat with the vendors, learn about the different types of seafood, and soak in the lively atmosphere.
Lunch: Savor Local Seafood After exploring the market, treat yourself to a seafood lunch Order a plate of moeche, delicately fried and served with a squeeze of lemon. Pair it with a glass of local white wine, such as a crisp Soave, and enjoy the simple yet exquisite flavors that Chioggia is famous for. Also have crab pasta, langostinos and delicious scallops. Granseola (Spider Crab): A specialty in Chioggia, spider crab is often prepared in a creamy pasta sauce or served as a delectable seafood salad.
Afternoon: Slow Stroll Along the Canals Spend the afternoon slowly exploring the canals that wind through the town. Chioggia’s canals are reminiscent of Venice but quieter, offering a more intimate experience. Walk along Canal Vena, one of the most scenic spots in town, where colorful boats bob gently in the water and historic buildings reflect in the canal’s surface. Don’t rush—allow yourself to be captivated by the serene beauty of this lesser-known gem.
Evening: Relaxed Aperitivo and Dinner As evening approaches, join the locals for an aperitivo at Baruffino, a waterfront bar with a laid-back vibe. Sip on a spritz or a glass of prosecco as you watch the sunset cast a golden glow over the lagoon.
For dinner, head to Trattoria Al Ponte, a family-run establishment where you can indulge in more local seafood. Try the grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled fish) or bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy sauce). The relaxed setting and delicious food make it the perfect end to your first day.
Embrace the Coastal Life
Morning: Boat Tour of the Lagoon Start your second day with a peaceful boat tour around the Venetian Lagoon. Book a tour with a local operator who offers small group excursions. As you glide through the water, you’ll see Chioggia from a new perspective, passing by fishing boats, small islands, and the beautiful coastline. Some tours include a stop at Pellestrina, a quiet island where you can walk along the shore and enjoy the tranquility.
Late Morning: Explore Sottomarina Beach After your boat tour, head to Sottomarina Beach, just a short walk from the old town. Unlike the more crowded beaches of Italy, Sottomarina offers a relaxed atmosphere with wide stretches of golden sand. Choose a lido where you can rent a sunbed and umbrella, and let the sound of the waves lull you into a state of relaxation. Take a dip in the Adriatic Sea, stroll along the water’s edge, or simply sit back and enjoy the sun.
Lunch: Beachside Dining For lunch, enjoy a casual meal at one of the beachside restaurants, such as Bacaro Rosso, where you can savor fresh seafood with a view of the sea. Try the spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) or a simple insalata di mare (seafood salad), accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine.
Afternoon: Leisurely Beach Time After lunch, continue to unwind at the beach. Whether you prefer reading a book under the shade of your umbrella, taking a nap, or collecting seashells along the shore, Sottomarina’s peaceful ambiance makes it easy to relax and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.
Evening: Sunset and Seafood Dinner Return to the old town in the early evening, and find a spot along the waterfront to watch the sunset. The changing colors of the sky and the reflections on the water create a mesmerizing scene that’s perfect for slow travel.
For your final dinner, visit Osteria Penzo, a local favorite known for its cozy atmosphere and delicious seafood. Order the risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) or frittura mista (mixed fried seafood), and savor each bite as you reflect on the tranquil beauty of Chioggia.
Morning: Final Stroll and Departure On your last morning in Chioggia, take a leisurely walk through the town one last time.
Visit Chiesa di San Domenico, a beautiful church located on a small island connected by a bridge, where you can admire
works of art by famous Venetian painters.
Stop for a coffee at a local cafe like Caffè Pedrocchi, and enjoy the slow pace of the morning as you watch the town wake up. As you prepare to leave, take one last look at the canals, the colorful houses, and the peaceful lagoon, knowing that you’ve experienced Chioggia in the most authentic and relaxing way possible.
Chioggia, with its timeless charm, fresh seafood, and serene surroundings, is a destination that invites you to slow down and appreciate the beauty of life at a gentle pace. Whether you’re exploring the old town, enjoying a meal by the water, or simply sitting on the beach, Chioggia offers a truly immersive and relaxing travel experience.
Here’s a small list of cute and charming restaurants in Chioggia, Italy, where you can enjoy delicious local cuisine in a cozy, authentic atmosphere:
1. Osteria Ai Coppi
Location: Calle Forno Filippini, 267
Vibe: Nestled in a quiet street, Osteria Ai Coppi offers a warm and intimate setting with rustic decor. It’s a perfect spot for a relaxed meal featuring fresh seafood and traditional Venetian dishes.
Must-Try: Moeche (soft-shell crabs), Risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto)
2. Trattoria Al Ponte
Location: Calle Ponte Caneva, 70
Vibe: This family-run trattoria is tucked away in a charming corner of the old town. With a cozy interior and a few outdoor tables, it’s a lovely spot to enjoy homemade pasta and freshly caught fish.
Must-Try: Bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy sauce), Frittura mista di pesce (mixed fried seafood)
3. Osteria Penzo
Location: Corso del Popolo, 1403
Vibe: Located along the lively Corso del Popolo, Osteria Penzo has a quaint and welcoming atmosphere with traditional decor. It’s a favorite among locals for its authentic Venetian flavors.
Must-Try: Sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines), Grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled fish)
4. Ristorante El Gato
Location: Corso del Popolo, 1167
Vibe: With its charming outdoor seating area overlooking the canal, El Gato is perfect for a romantic dinner or a relaxed lunch. The ambiance is casual yet refined, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.
Must-Try: Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams), Seppie alla griglia (grilled cuttlefish)
5. Ristorante Bella Venezia
Location: Viale Padova, 8
Vibe: Set in a historic building with a lovely garden, Bella Venezia combines old-world charm with modern touches. The atmosphere is elegant but unpretentious, making it a great spot for both casual and special occasions.
Must-Try: Risotto di pesce (seafood risotto), Tiramisu
These restaurants each offer a slice of Chioggia’s culinary heritage, served in atmospheres that range from cozy and rustic to elegantly charming.
Elegant Treviso
Treviso, a city that exerts chicness and style is home to prosecco, tiramisu and Benetton. This traditional town makes a great base to explore Veneto and is a place to unwind and absorb culture.
Treviso is a less- touristy town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy that is an underrated gem often overshadowed by the iconic status of its neighbour Venice, that is just 26 km away. The town fills with little waterways calling itself città d’acque making it an important feature of the townscape. The river Side runs to the south of the center that lines with beautiful houses, hortensia bushes and water wheels. The tranquil atmosphere is much different from its neighbouring Venice and it does not depend on tourism, there are no tacky tourist shops and it is evident that this town has a sense of prosperity.
We ate delicious food in this town, everything ranging from traditional beef tartare to cacio e Pepe to boar stews and scallops with porcini mushrooms. You will find lots of cute standing bars in the old town where you can go for a glass of wine or restaurant hop as we did one evening. One of favourite antipasti dishes was a butter brioche that was served with beautiful salted anchovies. Just heavenly.
Markets
On a Tuesday the market takes over the whole of city centre Treviso. It spreads across several squares where you can find everything from clothes to homeware to food. This market is clearly where locals do their weekly shopping. We where also lucky enough to stumble across a large antique market that travels in different towns in the region on Sundays. Also, a street market is held every Saturday morning, where they sell high-quality clothing and vintage gems. The antique market brought in collectors and serious buyers looking for cars, paintings, silver ware and furniture. We strolled through the market in the morning for a couple of hours and found antique brass handles, silver ware and onyx statues to take back home with us. There where so many beautiful things, like old painting frames, statues, glass blown vases, books and cast iron chairs where items clearly have a history.
We where also lucky that there was a circus in town as we always have wanted to take our little boy to an old fashioned circus that was a real treat for us. Apparently, every morning (except Monday) a seafood market is held on the Isola della Pescheria, a small island in the middle of the Cagnan river. Also Piazza Giustinian holds an organic farmers’ market three times a week, selling local wine, cheese and charcuterie.
Things to Do:
1. Explore the Historic Center:
Wander through the labyrinthine streets and alleys of Treviso’s historic center, with its charming canals and beautifully preserved medieval buildings.
2. Piazza dei Signori:
Visit this vibrant square surrounded by elegant buildings and cafes. Don’t miss the Palazzo dei Trecento, a stunning Gothic palace.
3. Treviso Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Pietro):
Admire the architectural beauty of this 12th-century cathedral and its impressive frescoes.
4. Museum of Santa Caterina:
This former convent houses a rich collection of medieval and Renaissance art, providing insight into Treviso’s cultural heritage.
5. Canoeing on the Sile River:
Rent a canoe and paddle along the tranquil Sile River to experience the serene natural beauty of the region.
6. Prosecco Vineyards:
Take a short drive to the Prosecco wine region and visit some of the local vineyards for a wine tasting experience.
7. Cicchetti and Prosecco Tasting:
Enjoy an authentic Venetian tradition by indulging in “cicchetti” (small snacks) and a glass of Prosecco at the town’s local osterias.
Culinary Delights:
Treviso’s cuisine is a delicious blend of Italian and Venetian flavors. Try these local specialties:
Risotto al Radicchio: Creamy risotto made with the famous Treviso radicchio.
Polenta: A staple dish often served with a variety of sauces.
Tiramisu: Savor the original version of this iconic Italian dessert in its birthplace.
Shopping:
Explore Treviso’s boutique shops and markets, especially in the historic center, where you can find local wines, cheese, and handcrafted goods.
When to Visit:
Treviso is beautiful year-round, but the best times to visit are in the spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) when the weather is mild and the tourist crowds are thinner.
watching the old school tent style circus
Sunsets in Spello
Welcome to Spello, a picturesque gem nestled in the heart of the enchanting Umbria region of Italy. This medieval town, with its labyrinthine alleys and charming squares, invites you to step back in time and immerse yourself in its rich history and timeless beauty. Spello, often referred to as the "flower town" for its vibrant floral displays, captivates visitors with its authentic Italian atmosphere and breathtaking scenery.
A magical little town that comes lit in the evenings as the sun drapes its rays across the stone pathways. From the occasional white blankets that hang on the wire lines and the colourful flower pots that crowd the streets, makes picture-esq Spello worth a visit when traveling around Umbria. I love the pale shades of the lined up buildings and how the curvy streets have dramatic lighting, beautiful archways that you can walk under. There is attention to detail in this town, which makes the evening strolls more pleasant. We sat down for antipasti before dinner to enjoy some bruschetta and truffle cheeses and worked our apatite by exploring the maze-like streets.
Exploring the Streets: Wander through Spello's cobblestone streets, where each corner reveals a new delight. Admire the well-preserved medieval architecture adorned with colorful flowers that cascade from windowsills and balconies. As you stroll, don't miss the chance to visit the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, a stunning example of Romanesque and Renaissance artistry. The intricate frescoes and awe-inspiring architecture are sure to leave you in awe.
Floral Splendor: Spello is renowned for its annual Infiorate, a floral festival held in June, during which the streets come alive with intricate flower petal designs. Artists create elaborate and vibrant carpets of flowers, transforming the town into a fragrant masterpiece. This celebration is a testament to Spello's commitment to preserving its traditions and showcasing the beauty of nature.
Culinary Delights: Indulge your taste buds in Spello's authentic Umbrian cuisine. From fresh pasta dishes to local wines, the town's restaurants offer a delightful culinary journey. Don't forget to savor the renowned olive oil produced in the region. The combination of local ingredients and traditional recipes creates a dining experience that reflects the true essence of Italian gastronomy. We ended the evening in a super cozy restaurant called La Cantina, which I highly recommend, but make sure to make reservations in advance as the restaurant was completely packed. I ate some rustic paté on toast and for the main course had a traditional wild boar stew. With my oversized chanel hanging from my hand and an off-the- shoulder shirt with ruffles on the sleeves, my camera had work as we crossed a new corner as I needed to capture the beauty, for a minute longer.
Hiking and Nature: For nature enthusiasts, the surrounding hills offer fantastic hiking opportunities. Embark on a journey through olive groves and vineyards, taking in panoramic views of the rolling Umbrian countryside. The tranquility of the landscape provides a perfect contrast to the bustling charm of the town.
Local Artisans: Spello is also a haven for artists and artisans. Explore the numerous workshops where skilled craftsmen produce traditional ceramics, textiles, and other handmade goods. You'll have the chance to purchase unique souvenirs that capture the essence of Spello's artistic heritage.
In essence, a visit to Spello is a voyage through time, where the past seamlessly blends with the present. Its well-preserved history, vibrant festivals, delectable cuisine, and natural beauty make it a destination that beckons travelers to slow down, savor each moment, and appreciate the magic of this charming Italian town. Whether you're an art aficionado, a history buff, or a nature lover, Spello offers an unforgettable experience that lingers in the heart long after you bid arrivederci.
Bevagna & Spoleto
Bevagna
Bevagna, the sleepy Roman-medieval village is situated next to the Teverone river that lies on flat ground, unlike most Umbrian towns that require quiet the hike to reach the centre! As we drove here from our villa through the scenic route we entered through the southern city gate passing the cute bridge that crosses over the Clitunno river. It was as if stepping back in time into the middle ages when entering the old town. Bevagna thrives on its medieval past and we happened to stumble in on the day the town was celebrating an annual medieval-style feast called the Gaite Market. The point of it all is to display the techniques and tools used in history to show how people lived back then. You get to taste traditional food, attend craft workshops thus locals we building booths, setting tables and walking around in Robyn Hood-like costumes to showcase for a journey into the past.
As it was early morning, we stopped for a cappuccino in Piazza Silvestri that seemed to be Bevagna’s pride and joy. Ps. Bevagna takes its siesta very seriously so everything closes super early so keep that in mind if you are planning a visit. It was still quiet in the streets and stores were slowly beginning to open and the hassle was focused on the corner cafes. The espresso machine was buzzing away and locals seemed to be in a festive state of mind and you could feel the sense of the community here. I could imagine this event brings the entire town together as it seemed as if everybody was joining in. We ordered cappuccino and sat down to watch the locals traverse the square to get from one place to another. The piazza is the standing point to two dominating Romanesque churches built in the 12th century, San Silvestro made from stone and the larger San Michele Archangelo. In the middle, there is a fountain and a civic building that seemed to gather people along with pigeons as the day prolonged.
After our delightful coffees, we took a turn to the backstreets passing the curving Vicolo del Amphiteatro and wandering through streets that had sidewalk restaurants, historic workshops, antique shops, numerous butchers, bakeries and candlestick making-shops. We noticed people lining up to a bakery and next we found ourselves in the same que. It smelled of freshly made loaf and there was a pastries display with treats like, biscotti and Sfogliatella lined up for customers to see. We noticed many locals taking these puff pastry cream horns that were coated with delicate sugar, so we decided to try one as well. They were just made, still warm with the vanilla oozing out. Before tasting it, we walked to the side street and from the corner of my eye I spotted a blush coloured wall. God bless my husband as he instantly knew what I was after. It was time for picture of the pastry with a cute blush backdrop! After a few pics, that first bite was so light and gorgeously flakey while the condensed vanilla cream hit you moments after. It was heavenly and we did not care that we had sugar all over our faces (see below) and we gobbled it up fairly quickly! It was sweet but light and no wonder everybody was lining up to buy them!
Spoleto
Spoleto, Umbria Italy
Plotted on a hillside, Spoleto is a beautiful artsy town with one major pathway leading up through the winding streets up to the 12th century duomo, that is a fine sight set against a backdrop of lush valleys.
Walking up the pathway, you are mesmerized with pastel walls, medieval architecture, dashes of colour from both ends of the spectrum and grand arches, a mark that is left by the Romans. Spoleto is a dream to photograph as the light is captured and cornered in different nooks depending on the time of the day. It is gentle and dramatic, an admirable little town and a “historical picnic” according to lonely planet.
Today the town is known for its festival called Festival dei Due Mondi, a party of many days that includes opera, dancing, music and art. Mr. N and I loved the walk through the old town, we stopped for some amazing espresso, shopped in cheese shops, spice shops and obviously stopped for a glass of wine during our hike.
September Veneto Road Trip
Veneto is a beautiful region to explore filled with charming towns filled with amazing food and sites to see.
The highlight of our end of summer was a trip to Italy where we drove around Veneto for ten days. Typically, we fly to Rome and drive from there but this time we flew to Venice and explored new areas nearby. We have explored Veneto before so we skipped exploring places like Verona and Soave that we are already familiar with. I’m often asked about our travel routes that are commonly curated with the help of Pinterest and a lot exploration on google maps (mainly by looking at the restaurants in the area), so I wanted to share this route with you, in case you are in the midst of planning a road trip to Veneto. The great thing about this location is that all the cities/towns we stayed in are about an hour away from each other which makes it very convenient when travelling with an active almost two year old toddler. So, our travel route was Venice – Arquá Petrarca- Treviso- Chioggia. From these towns, we made day trips to other locations that I will share with you later.
Venice
Well, Venice needs no introduction. We only stayed in Venice for one day as we have been there before so our priority was to visit other places instead and thought it would be too full of tourists. Surprisingly there were not that many tourists in Venice if you wonder off the beaten path which makes the experience that much more lovely. We enjoyed it that much more, so we decided to visit it again from Arquá Petrarca. Venice is quite difficult with a travel stroller but luckily my husband is strong and carried it over the bridges when we walked around, so keep this in mind if travelling with a small child. Venice is beautiful, get there early and enjoy it when it is still calm on the streets.
Arquá Petrarca
Arquá Petrarca, this medieval village invites you to take a slow walk in the foot steps of Mount Piccolo and Mount Ventolone. Peaked on top to a hill, the surrounding is covered with woodland and vineyards, while the cobbled street tiny town is filled with many restaurants inviting you to the slow pace of life in the most charming setting. The town has been inhabited since Roman times but it grew during the Middle Ages during the domination of Venice. The little town gained attention when Francesco Petrarca, an illustrious Italian poet spent the his last years here and notably the town is part of Italy’s most beautiful Villages. Places to visit near by are Padova, Vicenza, Venice and Rovigo.
While the town has been inhabited since Roman times, it grew significantly in the Middle Ages under the Padovan nobles and the domination of Venice. It gained more attention when Francesco Petrarca, an illustrious Italian poet and scholar, decided to spend the last years of his life in the serene tranquility of this place.
Treviso
Just 26km from Venice, Treviso is a chic less- touristy town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy that makes a great base for exploring. Treviso is an underrated gem often overshadowed by the iconic status of its neighbour. The town fills with little waterways calling itself città d’acque making it an important feature of the townscape. The river Side runs to the south of the center that lines with beautiful houses, hortensia bushes and water wheels. The tranquil atmosphere is much different from its neighbouring Venice and it does not depend on tourism, there are no tacky tourist shops and it is evident that this town has a sense of prosperity. We where lucky enough to stumble across a large antique market that travels in different towns in the region on Sundays. Also, a street market is held every Saturday morning, where they sell high-quality clothing and vintage gems. The market brought in collectors and serious buyers looking for cars, paintings, silver ware and furniture. We strolled through the market in the morning for a couple of hours and found antique brass handles, silver ware and onyx statues to take back home with us. We where also lucky that there was a circus in town as we always have wanted to take our little boy to an old fashioned circus that was a real treat for us. Apparently, every morning (except Monday) a seafood market is held on the Isola della Pescheria, a small island in the middle of the Cagnan river. Also Piazza Giustinian holds an organic farmers’ market three times a week, selling local wine, cheese and charcuterie.
Chioggia
It is a pretty little fishing town on a group of small islands connected by bridges in the southernmost outpost of the Venetian lagoon that is apart of the most beautiful cities in Italy. This town has a beautiful beach, pretty canals, amazing seafood and enchanting Italian charm. We stayed in the idyllic old town, that was lively, full of fishing boats and authenticity. You could hear the seagulls as the fishing boats came to dock, fishermen brought fresh produce to the fish market on a daily basis that collected a lot of buzz. The region is known for spider crab fishing along with catching little vongole- clams. We went to the beach a few times that is located only a 15 minute walk away from the old town that was a lovely experience for our little boy. Chioggia is very pretty and just off the beaten path enough to have retained a lot of local charm making it a great place to explore. We drove back to Venice airport from Chioggia that completed our lovely roadtrip.
Hidden Gardens of Venice
Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.
Embark on a tranquil journey just a brief boat ride away from the bustling San Marco Square, and you'll find yourself in the enchanting realm of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Nestled on the idyllic island of Giudecca, this luxurious retreat beckons those seeking respite from the vibrant energy of Venice.
As you step onto the verdant grounds, you'll be greeted by perfectly manicured gardens, providing an oasis of serenity. A leisurely stroll beneath the rose-covered arches transports you to a world of elegance and tranquility, far removed from the city's hustle and bustle.
Founded by the visionary Giuseppe Cipriani in 1958, the mastermind behind the iconic Harry's Bar and the beloved Bellini cocktail, Hotel Cipriani exudes a timeless charm. The lush surroundings, shared with the gardens, invite you to unwind and savor the leisurely pace of a Venetian afternoon.
During our visit, we indulged in a refreshing Bellini at Harry's Bar, its pale pink hue mirroring the sophistication of the establishment. For lunch, we treated ourselves to a culinary delight at the hotel's restaurant, relishing a garden-fresh salad and delectable cod fish.
In the afternoon, we embraced the soothing ambiance by the poolside, enjoying a delightful tea accompanied by sweet treats. Adorned in tranquil blue hues with a loose, droopy knot, Hotel Cipriani epitomizes elegance, offering a dreamy haven for those seeking a momentary escape. Indeed, this oasis in the heart of Venice unfolds as a perfect retreat to unwind, slow down, and bask in the sheer beauty of its surroundings.
The secret Garden of Italy- Tivoli
Providing the perfect country escape, Tivoli is a small medieval town situated on the Aniene river, about 30 kilometers from Rome that is filled with beauty and history. Perched on a hilltop with an abundance of natural beauty, the town offers panoramic views of manicured gardens and archaeological sites. Driving from Apulia, our last night in Italy needed to be situated close the airport as our flight to France was early morning, so we decided to stay in Tivoli, instead of Rome. However, if you are staying in Rome with days to spare, I would recommend a relaxing day trip to Tivoli to get away from the hassle of the city.
‘Finding the secret garden of Italy in Tivoli that breathes art & history’
Providing the perfect country escape, Tivoli is a small medieval town situated on the Aniene river, about 30 kilometers from Rome that is filled with beauty and history. Perched on a hilltop with an abundance of natural beauty, the town offers panoramic views of manicured gardens and archaeological sites. Driving from Apulia, our last night in Italy needed to be situated close the airport as our flight to France was early morning, so we decided to stay in Tivoli, instead of Rome. However, if you are staying in Rome with days to spare, I would recommend a relaxing day trip to Tivoli to get away from the hassle of the city.
Tivoli is considered to be one of Lazio’s most beautiful countryside villages and therefore it was once the playground for the wealthy Roman elite during the Renaissance and classical times. This era has left the town with villas and gardens that has made Tivoli famous today and therefore is a UNESCO site because of these three; Villa d’Este, Villa Gregoriana and Villa Adriana.
We arrived to Tivoli during the afternoon and checked into the hotel upon arrival. We loved our room, so cozy and romantic! We missed lunch hour and ate on the road but after a quick shower, we headed out exploring. Feeling a little parched, we stopped for some antipasti and prosecco and walked around the beautiful old town. It seemed like a religious little place, nuns walking around, church bells ringing in the background, views like-no-other and tiny piazzas here and there. We stopped for ice cream and accidentally came across to Villa D’Este, that took our breaths away. If I envision what a secret garden would like, this would it. Villa d’Este is something like no other, it is a masterpiece of a huge garden estate. It has the most whimsical ora to it, dancing fountains, stone sculptures, grottoes, nymphs, beautiful ponds and hidden nooks that much represents european gardens in the baroque style. There is landscape, art and history to see and includes important ruins of ancient villas such as Villa Adriana
Stay We stayed in a super cozy junior suite of B&B Al Palazzetto, where the hotel was beautifully restored. The location was perfectly centred in the old town and we were able to leave our car in a secured parking in the base of the town. Great price quality ratio and highly recommend the place.
Love Walk around the picturesque old town and stop for processo and a cheese platter in one of the spilling terraces hidden in the cutest corners. Have some icecream desert and explore the gardens of villa d éste. Snuggle up in a cozy piazzas for dinner over a full-bodied red wine and steak.
Wander Walk around the sophisticated crown jewel, Villa D´Este and get lost in the gardens. Experience the natural beauty of it all, the art, landscape design and be impressed by the numerous fountains. The handwork of the Romans is impressive and I was in heaven seeing all the ancient tiles and beautiful architecture. Villa d’Este is situated across the main square of Largo Garibaldi and was originally the country estate of Cardinal Ippolito d’Este. The villa itself is a display of history; exploring the original marble floors and mannerist frescoes that then opens up to the hectares of gardens.
Beyond the Grand Canal
Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.
Undoubtedly, Venice stands as one of Europe's most tourist-laden cities, yet the true enchantment unfurls when one ventures beyond the well-trodden paths, delving deeper into an authentic Venetian experience. Navigating the labyrinthine streets, each turn reveals hidden gems — captivating piazzas adorned with winding arteries, imposing clock towers, centuries-old churches, and charming eateries. Amidst the maze of tucked canals and gothic walls, Venice emanates a majestic presence impossible to ignore.
Venice, often a subject of controversy and varied opinions, has garnered mixed reviews. Despite my initial hesitation, I abstained from Venice for nine years, fearing a chaotic environment and a lost sense of authenticity. However, a week spent in the city proved my apprehensions wrong, leaving me utterly mesmerized by its architectural and artistic grandeur. Venice, a place that demands time to uncover its layers, should not be hurried through. The city has earned a reputation for being described as dirty, touristy, overpriced, and chaotic. This perception stems largely from the influx of cruise ship visitors, around 30,000 per day, converging on the main sights, creating a cramped spectacle in the narrow streets. I empathize with the frustration this may cause, particularly in the height of summer. My advice is threefold: avoid the high season, venture away from the main sights to escape the crowds, and explore early morning or late evening when the city breathes with a serene calmness.
Spending a week in Venice allowed us to delve deeper into its roots, discovering a city that unwinds and reveals its peaceful side once the day-trippers disperse. By deviating from the well-trodden paths, one can navigate a Venice large enough to avoid overwhelming masses. May, away from the prime summer influx, proved to be an ideal choice for our exploration. The Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square, chaotic during the day, transform during sunrise into serene havens with a scattering of photographers and locals enjoying their morning coffees.
Addressing the commonly perceived expense of Venice, it's true that the city can be pricey compared to other Italian counterparts. However, with meticulous research, one can explore Venice on a budget. Dining costs vary, and occasional service fees can be steep, but diligent planning can help mitigate expenses. Traveling by boat might incur costs, but opting for a water bus provides a budget-friendly alternative.
In conclusion, Venice merits exploration, inviting you to let your gaze wander across weathered facades, waterlogged corridors, and tranquil piazzas, revealing the city's timeless allure.
Immerse yourself in the subtle tapestry of Venetian details — the gracefully arched windows, reminiscent of Moorish design, crowned with domes and adorned with glass crafted from repurposed bottle bottoms. Take notice of the intricate wrought-iron handrails that guide your journey, each curve telling a story of skilled craftsmanship. Wander through enchanting passageways, where vibrant flowers and trailing vines spill over, creating a picturesque cascade of natural beauty. Venice, a city steeped in the patina of time, offers a palette of fading colors that seamlessly blend with the tranquil blue-green reflections of its waters against historic facades.
Venture into the heart of the city and discover tucked-away shops nestled in the corners of splendid Gothic buildings. Each corner holds the promise of hidden treasures, with antique wonders that captivate the eye and transport you to a bygone era. Venice, in all its architectural splendor, invites you to unravel its secrets, encouraging you to explore the delicate interplay of history and aesthetics within its charming streets. Psst! The antiques here are nothing short of stunning, awaiting the discerning eye to unearth their stories and add a touch of timeless elegance to your journey.
A few restaurant options:
Porta d’Acqua in the San Polo Sestieri, where you will find a heavenly burrata
Al gondolieri for a cozy dinner
Alle Testiere for great seafood but Burano ( Gato Nero) provides an amazing seafood experience as well.
Cicheri ( little tapas sandwiches): Al Marca or La Cantina
Bacari in Venice, the local way.
Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.
‘Gone for an espresso, some bacari & Venetian delights.. local style’
Venice, a city suspended on water, is a mesmerizing labyrinth of canals, historic architecture, and cultural richness. Its unique charm lies not only in the grandeur of St. Mark's Square or the iconic gondola rides but also in the intimate corners where locals and visitors alike immerse themselves in the Bacari culture.
Venice is surrounded with cute little espresso or bacari (this basically refers to the antipasti or tapas way of eating, but with Venetian customs) bars that make the winding streets interesting to roam. You may pass little vegetable stands, chocolate shops, delis and you always want to seek for places, where locals are. We came across a few cute places that I thought should be worth a share, along with the most beautiful views that came along the way. You often find locas eating cicchetti and ordering, “n’ombra de vin” or “uno spritz” standing up at the bar counter or around a wine barrel having a great time.
Walking around here is simple beautiful, I’m so drawn to all the muted blue shades that keep appearing in window shutters and you become so impressed by the attention to detail. I can easily look past the clichés of Venice and observe a little deeper to find a city filled with art and history. I love how dense Venice really is, you keep finding little hidden shops and cafés by accident, which you end up loving.
Have bacari at bistrot (Chat qui rit) and indulge in a cheese and parma ham platter and crab meat with a divine salty reduction. The cheese selection here won some type of award a few years ago and it was a great way to end the meal. Stop for an espresso (also a great cappuccino here) and pastries at a shabby cafe where all the locals lingered at caffé Brasilia Sestiere San Marco 3658a. Locals also love caffeteria Doria, it was buzzing in the mornings with people standing by the bar taking shots of 1euro espresso. There is a great authentic vibe here and equally, in the evenings it crowds with people who come together for wine and apperol. This place has a great atmosphere despite it being close to Saint Mark’s Basilica, that is filled with tourists. While you’re in the neighbourhood, stop at Cibo (Calle dei Fabbri Sestiere Sano Marco 4666) a cute delicatessen that is a jewel in the heart of the city that serves quality meets, cheeses, truffles, pasta and wine that you should for sure indulge in. Still in San Marco neighbourhood, stop for cicchetti (little sandwiches that are tradition in Venice) on Calle Della Malvasia Castello called Osteria al Portego or the hidden I Rusteghi Osteria Enoteca (Corte del Tentor, 5513) that is perhaps a little more “refined” than the traditional bar that has a lovely tiny courtyard with a wonderful wine list.
The city of Masks- Venice
Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.
Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Venice is not merely an act of window shopping; it is a journey into a realm of theatrical splendor. As you traverse the narrow alleys, boutique windows beckon with an exquisite array of elaborate costumes, mysterious masks, timeless antiques, and opulent jewelry. The very essence of this experience is heightened by the picturesque backdrop of canals crisscrossing beneath charming bridges, accompanied by the soothing symphony of passing boats.
In the midst of the bustling crowds, it is essential to resist distraction and seize the tranquility of the early hours. These moments allow you to absorb the profound history etched into the walls, tracing back to the V century C.E. When political power shifted to Rialto in 810 C.E., then known as Rivo Alto, Venice emerged as a prominent seaport—a vital link between medieval Europe and Asia, shaping both its economy and culture.
Venturing beyond the surface, you'll encounter a fascinating Venetian tradition manifesting in the form of masks. These symbols of freedom and transgression have adorned faces since the Middle Ages, finding a modern-day resurgence during the iconic Carnival of Venice. The city boasts numerous boutiques dedicated to these intricate masks, a visual feast that captivates the eyes and the imagination.
Among the captivating mask designs, those featuring elongated noses carry a historical resonance. Centuries ago, during plagues that befell Venice, doctors donned masks with extended noses as a sanitary measure. The echoes of this cautionary practice are seen in the masks of today's Carnival revelry.
Navigating the cityscape involves traversing its iconic bridges—a feat made more challenging with a travel stroller in tow, admirably shouldered by my husband. Intermittent pauses at standing cafes offer moments of respite, accompanied by the quintessential Italian pairing of espresso and bruschetta. A personal favorite became the local delicacy of baccala bread, an enticing blend of flavors with a hint of saltiness.
Our exploration extended beyond the tourist hubs, meandering through diverse neighborhoods and piazzas, each unveiling a new facet of Venice's timeless beauty. Amidst warm September air, we relished leisurely lunches in cozy establishments, immersing ourselves in the cultural tapestry that makes Venice an unrivaled destination.
September in Umbria
As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.
Embracing the Slow Italian lifestyle
As the amber hues of September cast their warm glow over the undulating landscapes of Umbria, we embarked on a journey into the heart of Italy—a sojourn that unfolded in a harmonious dance with the region's lauded "slow life." Nestled in the embrace of our rented villa, our days were marked by the unhurried cadence of Italian living, a celebration of simplicity, culinary richness, and the exploration of nearby towns that echoed with centuries of history.
Villa Living: A Retreat into Tranquility
Our choice of accommodation, a rustic villa tucked away in the verdant hills of Umbria, became a sanctuary for the soul. Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, the villa encapsulated the essence of "slow life"—an invitation to savor every moment, to relish the gentle rustle of leaves, and to immerse ourselves in the quietude of rural living. Each sunrise and sunset became a canvas painted with the hues of tranquility, offering a daily reminder to embrace the unhurried pace of our Italian retreat.
Culinary Revelry: From Farm to Table
The heart of our slow-paced Italian experience lay in the kitchen, where we joyfully embraced the farm-to-table ethos that permeates Umbria. Market visits and local farm explorations led to our culinary escapades, transforming every meal into a ritual of flavors. Whether it was the robust notes of a local Sagrantino wine, the golden glow of freshly pressed olive oil, or the earthy allure of truffles, our palates danced to the rhythm of Umbria's culinary symphony.
Exploring Nearby Towns: Timeless Beauty Unveiled
Venturing beyond the confines of our villa, we set out to explore the nearby towns that dot the Umbrian landscape. Perugia, with its medieval charm; Assisi, adorned with the spiritual aura of St. Francis; and Spoleto, where ancient and modern seamlessly coexist—each town narrated a tale of history, art, and the enduring beauty of Italian heritage. The slow exploration of narrow cobblestone streets and leisurely café stops allowed us to absorb the rich tapestry of each town at our own unhurried pace.
Art of Dolce Far Niente: Sweetness of Doing Nothing
In the spirit of "dolce far niente" or the sweetness of doing nothing, our afternoons unfolded in blissful idleness. Be it basking in the Tuscan sun by the villa's pool or meandering through the local markets, we found joy in the simplicity of existence. Umbria, with its timeless landscapes and ancient charm, invited us to pause, to reflect, and to appreciate the beauty that emerges when life unfolds at its own leisurely tempo.
Our September retreat in Umbria became a harmonious symphony of slow living—an Italian serenade that transcended the ordinary. In the quiet moments and the unhurried exploration of nearby towns, we discovered the profound beauty that resides in the art of slowing down. Umbria, with its rolling hills, vineyards, and ancient towns, not only offered a picturesque backdrop but became the canvas upon which we painted our own version of the Italian slow life—a masterpiece of moments, flavors, and the timeless allure of la dolce vita.
Tuscany Guide- Three Smaller towns in the region
I wanted to share a small guide of three wonderful places we visited, all located close to Siena. We stayed in Montepulciano for three nights and during that time we drove to see other neighbouring towns, such as Montalcino and Pienza. If you are looking for picturesque little towns all in close proximity, get ready to take out your camera and walk along these cobbled streets. We traveled with our 8 month old and found all these destinations baby friendly and possible to walk around with a stroller.
Montepulciano
I wanted to share a small guide of three wonderful places we visited, all located close to Siena. We stayed in Montepulciano for three nights and during that time we drove to see other neighbouring towns, such as Montalcino and Pienza. If you are looking for picturesque little towns all in close proximity, get ready to take out your camera and walk along these cobbled streets. We traveled with our 8 month old and found all these destinations baby friendly and possible to walk around with a stroller.
A fairytale in Tuscany – Montepulciano
Where the wine is velvety smooth and rich in density, Montepulciano is a stunning hilltop town in the south of Tuscany in the province of Siena. It is surrounded with lush vineyards and the scenery of Val d’orcia and Val di Chiana valleys and the town dates back to the 4th and 5th century BC. The old town is a typical cobbled street beauty with one main road that leads up a steep walk into the centre. There are churches, idyllic piazzas, restaurants and wine shops around every corner. The town is filled with majestic buildings that have been worked on by many famous Renaissance artists like, Andrea Pozzo, Giuliano da Sangallo and Michelozzo. The town is not that big in itself, we did some wine sampling, a bit of shopping and dining. We found fabulous hand made copper pots and pans to take back home with us, along with some red wine. Like all towns in Italy, Montepulciano was very child friendly and I love how all the local elderlies stop and talk to the little one in the stroller.
The cozy Pecorino di Pienza
Pienza is only a 20 minute drive from Montepulciano so it is definitely worth a visit. We fell in love with this UNESCO-recognized town, partly due to its refined charm. The town is a cosy little spot that literally has a linger of pecorino cheese in the air. We visited the town early in the morning, strolled around and ate breakfast before our baby’s nap time, who later fell asleep in the car as we drove to visit another town nearby. Pienza is also located in Val d’Orcia, that is known as a picturesque Renaissance town that has been influenced by Pope Pius II, as it was his home town. By the main square there is a cosy little cafe that serves the most airy apricots croissants and a frothy cappuccino. Right across the cafe is a cheese shop (that you will find all over town), where you can by the most glorious aged pecorino that we sampled with our croissants. It was the most perfect morning with my boys, we sat and sipped on our coffee and watched locals open their boutiques as the day began. Walk around the edge of the town and overlook the views into the Tuscany countryside. If you are here in the evening, I would recommend to stop for a glass of wine as the sun begins to set overlooking the hills while sampling on cheese and honey.
Another wine lovers town- Montalcino
Another Mecca for wine lovers, this medieval town is world-famous for its renowned red wine, the Brunello di Montalcino, which is considered the absolute Italian wine in Tuscany. The wine ages for at least 2 years in oak barrels, and then it ages for at least 4 months in the bottle and it tastes earth and deep, rich with flavour. A 45 minute drive from Montepulciano, we loved this town; the antiquee stores, the delicious food (and wine) and atmosphere it offers. We had an amazing tartar lunch and hearty pasta and sampled on stunning red wines as we explored the town. A stroll through Montalcino reveals enchanting historical attractions, small churches and picturesque squares. With church bells ringing in the backdrop as we sample on deep ruby coloured Brunello di Montalcino. It is completed according to the strictest DOCG rules and is made with a single type of grape, the Sangiovese Grosso grape. The town is best explored by roaming without a plan and makes an ideal spot to visit for lunch.
Montalcino