2 nights in Amalfi
A Citrus-Scented Dream on the Coast
After three tranquil nights in the sleepy fishing village of Cetara, just twenty minutes away, we were ready for a change of pace. Amalfi, one of the most iconic gems of the Amalfi Coast, greeted us with a flurry of energy — the chatter of travelers, the glint of sunlight on the sea, and the sweet scent of lemons drifting through the air. We knew it would be busy, but coming from Cetara’s quiet charm, we welcomed the liveliness. And as evening descended and the day-trippers melted away, the town revealed a more intimate side — lanterns twinkling, the sound of the waves softening the streets, and locals reclaiming their piazza.
View of Amalfi harbour on our walk to Atrani, the neighbouring town
Staying in the Heart of It All
Our stay at La Casa del Duca, a lovely Airbnb perched right above the family-run restaurant La Taverna del Duca, placed us at the very heart of Amalfi. From our balcony, we could watch the rhythm of the town unfold below — scooters whizzing past, the hum of conversation, and the golden light bouncing off the pastel façades. From here, it was also an easy and scenic 10-minute walk to the neighboring village of Atrani, which we did one afternoon — a charming stroll along the coast that offers quieter streets and stunning sea views.
Dining downstairs at La Taverna del Duca felt like joining a local secret. The food was exquisite — honest, deeply flavorful, and made with unmistakable pride. For anyone visiting Amalfi, this is a place that deserves a spot on your list.
Where the Sea Meets the Table
Another culinary highlight was Marina Grande, set right on the water. With the sea lapping just steps away, we indulged in a seafood feast that was nothing short of heavenly — creamy seafood risotto, sea urchin spaghetti layered over tuna tartare, and a perfectly balanced spaghetti alle vongole that delighted our three-year-old (and became his go-to dish for the rest of the trip).
The Soul of Amalfi
Amalfi’s beating heart is its central Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the stunning Cathedral of Saint Andrew (Duomo di Amalfi). Climbing the grand staircase to its doors feels like stepping into another era. Inside, the mosaic details, the bronze doors from Constantinople, and the peaceful cloister transport you to a time when Amalfi was a powerful maritime republic.
Between sightseeing and strolling, we couldn’t resist the famous lemon sorbets served in frozen lemon shells — refreshing, zesty, and perfectly balanced. We went back twice, and honestly, we could have gone a third time.
A Taste of Lemon Paradise
One of the most memorable experiences of our trip was a spontaneous lemon farm tour — a window into the soul of Amalfi’s heritage. The farm sits just above town, accessible by a steady uphill walk (note: bring comfortable shoes (I did not) and a bit of stamina — my husband ended up carrying our three-year-old part of the way!).
Led by a local family, the guided tour took us through terraced lemon groves perched dramatically on the cliffs. We learned how generations have tended to these precious Sfusato Amalfitano lemons, which thrive in this microclimate. A fun fact: mice are one of the farmers’ biggest threats, capable of wiping out entire crops.
The experience ended on a delicious note — fresh lemon juice, moist lemon cake, and a potent but smooth homemade limoncello. It was a sensory celebration of Amalfi’s essence. While tickets often sell out in advance, we were lucky to snag last-minute spots by walking up and inquiring directly.
Family Moments by the Sea
Traveling with a little one, we discovered a lovely playground tucked away from the bustle, conveniently connected to a quiet beach. It became a small oasis for families — a place where kids could run free while parents enjoyed a moment of calm against the sea backdrop.
For those seeking adventure, Amalfi offers private boat rentals that let you explore hidden coves and grottoes along the coast. Prices are generally reasonable, and the views of the cliffs from the water are unforgettable. Unfortunately, our plans were dashed by strong waves and an approaching storm that evening — but even watching the storm roll in from our balcony felt cinematic.
Taking Amalfi Home
Before leaving, we stopped by a local limoncello distillery right in the center of town, where the spirit is crafted on-site. We brought home a few bottles — not just as souvenirs, but as reminders of the sunshine, sweetness, and vibrancy that define Amalfi.
What Else to See and Do in Amalfi
While many visitors come for a day, staying overnight lets you experience the town’s quieter charm. In addition to the Duomo and lemon tours, you might also:
Visit the Museum of Paper (Museo della Carta) to learn about Amalfi’s ancient paper-making tradition.
Hike the Valle delle Ferriere, a lush nature reserve filled with waterfalls and rare plants.
Take a ferry to Positano or Capri or some smaller less known towns for easy day trips.
Wander through Piazza dei Dogi and the nearby alleys for boutique shopping and gelato.
Walk to Atrani, the neighbouring town in 10minutes. There is a cute lunch spot in between the towns on th edge of the cliff called Ristorantte Da Zaccaria.
Enjoy a negroni & antipasti overlooking the sea before dinner time
buy & taste limoncello at Antichi Sapori d ´Amalfi, a store and a place where they also make limoncello.
Amalfi is more than its postcard perfection — it’s a town of layers. Beneath the crowds and souvenir shops, you’ll find stories of families, centuries of craftsmanship, and the unshakable spirit of a coastal community that has thrived for generations. Whether you’re sipping limoncello, listening to church bells, or watching the sea change color at sunset, Amalfi reminds you to slow down and savor life’s sweetness — much like its famous lemons.
