Assisi & Spello, Umbria
A Perfect Day in Assisi and Spello: Umbrian Tranquility and Truffle Delights
After many visits to Umbria, we’ve come to know its rhythm—the quiet hum of the countryside, the slow swirl of morning mist over the olive groves. This time, we stayed at a rustic farm hotel surrounded by olive groves, a peaceful base for revisiting some of our favourite hill towns. Yet, as always in Umbria, even familiar places reveal something new.
Assisi
The day began in Assisi, where the pale pink stone of the Basilica of St. Francis caught the soft light of morning. Pilgrims and visitors moved through the square in gentle silence, the scent of espresso and church incense mingling in the air. We wandered the narrow lanes, past artisans’ workshops and quiet courtyards, pausing to look out over the vast valley that seems to shimmer below the town. No matter how many times we visit, Assisi still feels deeply spiritual—rooted in peace and simplicity.
In Assisi, time seems to stretch and soften. Beyond the grandeur of the basilica, the town reveals quieter corners that invite lingering—a shaded cloister fragrant with rosemary, a tiny bakery where the scent of freshly baked rocciata drifts into the street, a terrace where you can sip coffee while listening to the echo of distant bells. Walking along the old stone paths that wind past the medieval walls, it’s easy to sense why St. Francis chose this place of light and silence. Even amid visitors and pilgrims, Assisi retains a rare stillness, a feeling that the spirit of the town asks you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply be present.
Spello
By late morning, we drove a short stretch through the Umbrian hills to Spello, a smaller and perhaps more secretive beauty. Its winding streets burst with flowers in summer, but even in the cooler months, Spello charms with its honey-colored stone and ancient archways. We found a cozy trattoria tucked into the old town for a truffle-inspired lunch—a seasonal celebration of the earthy treasure Umbria is so famous for. Hand-rolled tagliatelle arrived glistening with butter and freshly shaved truffles, followed by a simple omelet laced with their deep aroma.
After lunch, we lingered, strolling through quiet lanes where sunlight filtered between balconies and ivy-covered walls. From a terrace near Porta Venere, the view stretched across the valley toward Mount Subasio—Assisi visible in the distance, its basilica shining like a beacon.
As the afternoon faded, we returned to our farmhouse, olive trees silhouetted against the setting sun. Even after countless visits, Umbria continues to feel both familiar and new—its towns timeless, its food honest, its pace wonderfully slow.
Spello, by contrast, feels more intimate, almost secretive—a place that seems to unfold at its own quiet pace. Its streets twist and climb between ancient Roman walls and stone houses overflowing with geraniums, each corner revealing a new detail: a painted doorway, a carved lintel, a glimpse of olive groves shimmering below. There’s an easy elegance here, a warmth that feels lived-in rather than displayed. In the afternoon light, the town glows a soft golden hue, and locals linger in doorways chatting as cats stretch lazily in the sun. Spello may not have Assisi’s grandeur, but it offers something equally special: the feeling of slipping into the true rhythm of Umbrian life, where beauty hides in everyday moments.
